Breeze sucks.
- Thread starter Despain
- Start date
keisukeyui
Member
28 colors is waaay too much for a sprite.
This non-sprite (and more of an oekaki than a pixel) picture I did only has 12 colors, and that's including the white outline and the dark grey background. I didn't even keep pixel-pushing in mind with this piece, so I can probably reduce the colors even farther. I don't even like work with palettes. I just choose a color that I like and go with it, but I still worry about my colors seeming flat.
http://img170.imageshack.us/img170/9051 ... tteoa5.png[/img]
I sugest using 8-16 colors for a sprite.
I'm not using Breeze (or any templates for that matter) but here are two from my RMVX game I'm working on.
http://www.munk3yboy.com/fohgame/millie.gif[/img]
25 colors (including transparancy)
http://www.munk3yboy.com/fohgame/mytoss.gif[/img]
28 colors (including transparancy)
It isn't 1986 anymore, you should use enough colors to describe your sprite but not too many it becomes a burden to animate. There isn't an artificial number thats any better or worse than some other number. If you sprited a leprechaun on a pot of gold at the end of a rainbow it should have more than a character in a full set of blackened iron armor. If your eye can't hardly pick up the difference between two colors one should be removed or the contrast should be bumped up. Otherwise it really is just a useless color and more along the lines of an artifact that an improvement. Reducing for the sake of reducing is pretty silly though. If they don't contribute they should be made to contribute or removed thats all. ^^
About the tutorial.
It has tons of innaccuracies. And if you want my opinion your "high-quality" result is actually overall worse than the template, and many of the examples you linked to that you're bashing in the first place. Here is why:
How does it Read?
The thing with the feet. I get what you were trying to do but the reason it looks off balance is because the silhouette reads more like a soldier standing at attention than it does a person casually standing. The original reads more like his legs are spread apart in a more natural stance regardless of the stumpyness. Readability is infinately more important in sprites and icons than anatomical accuracy (and art in general actually - it IS all just an illusion after all). Specially on chibi/SD.
To check your readability just blacken the entire thing on a white background. The better you can immediately tell what you're trying to communicate without any details the better it reads. The chin modification I agree with and do think you improved that, it does read a tad jagged even at full scale. The crotch concerns eh... I think you may have just been wanting to make a penis joke, thats pretty obvious a bellybutton. Regardless, unless people plan to have naked characters, its a tad irrelavent and entirely based on opinion since it does read just fine.
Lighting or Avoiding Flat sprites
You linked to Niklas Jansen's tutorial but I don't think you grasped most of the concepts yourself. Most of his tutorial is on lighting and this is by far your biggest area you did incorrectly.
Lighting and shadows (Luminosity) determines the difference between flat or round not the color that it reflects back. The original template I can automatically tell where the light source is, above and a little bit in front of the character. This is a pretty ideal location for a game sprite because it describes the objects shapes adequately and it works in many different lighting conditions without looking out of place. Most tilesets indicate light from the same area just a tad to the left to give cast shadows off buildings and things, so lighting a character that way too would probably work out ok.
In your first pass you moved it to directly above his head and then told everyone to just ignore it, because you noticed something was up but didn't exactly know what it was. What you did is actually similar to pillow shading, but rather than a light being shined directly from the front, you're going directly from above. If you do photography at all, you probably know shooting under a high noon sun is discouraged since the shadows it causes will black out peoples eyes and possibly their faces depending on hair or if they're wearing a hat for example. It makes their faces not read as well, thus not as flattering a photo. The original template was much better in this aspect. You mentioned that you do not know why the body was not shaded in the same way as the head. I have no idea who made those or their art knowledge but I'd be surprised if they did that on pure accident. The reason is basically called planes. If you paint a portrait, and put a specular light on the end of a nose, any speculars on the forehead shouldn't be as apparant as the one on that nose, dull it up or (i usually don't include them myself). This help indicate it's further inside the drawing than the nose is. So in the case of the sprite the head is closer to the viewer than say the tummy is. Its part of utilizing depth. Thats what the lack of shading on the body is doing. If you look at the Jansen's pin-ups (tutorial guy) he does it very frenquently on legs that are further "in" the drawings they're usually just completely undetailed gray blobs. But it works :thumb:Â
To check your lighting you should be able to completely desaturate your entire sprite to just shades of gray and still be able to tell where the light is shining from. On your later pass you almost completely removed all indications of light right after telling people not to make their sprites flat! No no no. Light/Shadow = round, not colors! You just made the flattest sprite on the entire page! Now to be fair you DID add it back in when you detailed it with clothing and hair, but mainly just a couple cast shadows. The original with the darker spot near the eyes. I could build that shape out of clay. Just that tiny indication tells you that the eyes are abit more inset than the jaw area. With yours the face not only looks completely flat the entire head doesn't even look round. Looks like a cardboard cutout.
Here is a concept art from my game. Chosen because it is mostly in grays but you can easily see it isn't flat even with grays and the light source is in a similar spot to the original template (little more to the left though). Compare it to the the original sprites head, and your edits. Hopefully you can see that your final pass before details is by far the most flat. Even cell shading follows light rules, it's just simplified.
http://www.munk3yboy.com/fohgame/rrod.jpg[/img]
How to pick color palletes
I checked your colors, you actually do well here, better than the template. You could probably punch up your contrast in spots, but hell I should too so it'd be hypocritical for me to harp on about that. Unfortunately its the part you glossed over, and didn't really explain.
Heres a color slider, this is from Photoshop but if you're using something decent they all have something like this. Make sure you have it set to HSB mode and not RGB or it'll look a bit different. You don't have to actually pick colors this way, its just easier for me to illustrate What you should be thinking while you choose them.
http://www.munk3yboy.com/fohgame/pallete.jpg[/img]
H = Hue - controls the color
S = Saturation - this is how bright or dull a color is. Realistic is usually pretty dull (desaturated), cartoony is bright and colorful (saturated).
B = Brightness - Controls the luminosity of a color. AKA lighting.
Red Orange Yellow = Warm
Blue Purple Green = Cool
There isn't a hard edge between them. Greens can be pretty warm, Reds can be pretty cool etc. But thats Basically what you're after. Incidently gray can be either depending on what is around it. (See that Tutorial linked he has some great illustrations about that). Usually warm = closer, cool = farther away. Theres probably some psychological reason for it but I don't know. If you want a pleasing look go with that, if you want the viewer to be uncomfortable switch it up. Scary movies many times use cool colors. (Aliens did, and it kind of became a standard for futurisitic sterile looking too).
Pick your base color. That peach I screencapped will do nicely. In my sprites above I'm doing 4 colors per area. I have a base color, a warmer highlight, a cooler shadow, then a darker outline (also colored, it isn't black). Its enough for me but you can up it and go to 6's adding some inbetweens on your highlights and shadows. I wouldn't probably go much past that because it starts to get unweildy to keep colors correct while animating. You can go lower but my stuff always comes out looking like some atari crap if I do. I'd suggest ditching the highlight first over shadow in most cases if you do though. You can get rid of the outline, I know that Xenogear's sprites had no outlines but I think they look pretty bad (although they animate ungodly well).
http://www.munk3yboy.com/fohgame/elly_run.gif[/img]
Anyway choosing colors! So from our peach we slide the H bar a bit more towards a yellow perhaps (yellow usually feels warmer than a red does if you're going from an orange) Bump up the brightness bar alittle as well, probably desaturate the color a bit more (move it more to the white). This will be our highlight. To get the cooler shadows color pick our original base, then move more towards the cool colors and set the brightness lower. The H bar is set up kind of weird as far as warms and cools go but basically for the cool color I'd head left since the distance including wrap around should get you a bit closer to the really cool colors faster(blue/purple). Its all about experimentation though and you can just flat out go to an actual purple or blue if you wish. It gives a much different vibe. With a blue base I go pretty far into purple for example.
Heres an unfinished sketch to illustrate it more clearly perhaps. See the blue/grey fur? Look closely at some of my shadows they're almost completely purple. They jive well with the blue next to them so at full size your eye blends them together fairly nicely.
http://www.munk3yboy.com/fohgame/wolfen.jpg[/img]
For the outlines I usually find that taking your darkest and just going a bit darker (you can go alittle cooler too if you want) suffices. You should get something like this:
http://www.munk3yboy.com/fohgame/colors.jpg[/img]
If you desaturate that you'll see the luminosity switching so light control is good... as you go right to left the colors get cooler each step. The second color is my base so I'd mostly use this through most of it, the highlight (far left color) would be used for the head, then you use the last for an outline and the other you can use to antialias or cell shade with. If a color is too bright (I think my highlight probably is for skin) or too dark adjust as needed. If you got a blue shirt set up some colors the same way starting with blue. And so on.
EDIT : I wrote that the colors right to left get cooler, its actually the opposite, the left are warm - right are cool. I'll go get analyzed for dyslexia. =P
Small Recap:
Brightness is your shading,
Hue is your warm and colds.
Saturation I tend to experiment a lot. In the real world shadows tend to be more desaturated and blue during the day (from the sky). I find that actually bumping up the saturation alittle on my shadows gives a neat effect. Bit more punch perhaps. The key with color though is just practice and trying things. You can get wildly different feels from different things, theres no one way to do it all. If your sprite is already reading well, and your lighting is correct its a lot more difficult to ruin a sprite with the colors.
Readability = most important!!!! You can't color a sprite like a crab without it looking like a crab first!
-------------------------
Hope that helps. I didn't think your tutorial was horrible. I think if you'd had your lighting correct and explained how to choose colors and dropped the arrogant attitude and trying to put others down it'd be fairly top notch. The leg thing is sort of optional. If you want a soldier stance I'd definately use yours, but I really do think the original template reads a lot better for a more normal everyday stance. I'm guessing thats what most people need for their characters.
PS too lazy to proofread, so hopefully the grammar is manageable.
http://www.munk3yboy.com/fohgame/millie.gif[/img]
25 colors (including transparancy)
http://www.munk3yboy.com/fohgame/mytoss.gif[/img]
28 colors (including transparancy)
It isn't 1986 anymore, you should use enough colors to describe your sprite but not too many it becomes a burden to animate. There isn't an artificial number thats any better or worse than some other number. If you sprited a leprechaun on a pot of gold at the end of a rainbow it should have more than a character in a full set of blackened iron armor. If your eye can't hardly pick up the difference between two colors one should be removed or the contrast should be bumped up. Otherwise it really is just a useless color and more along the lines of an artifact that an improvement. Reducing for the sake of reducing is pretty silly though. If they don't contribute they should be made to contribute or removed thats all. ^^
About the tutorial.
It has tons of innaccuracies. And if you want my opinion your "high-quality" result is actually overall worse than the template, and many of the examples you linked to that you're bashing in the first place. Here is why:
How does it Read?
The thing with the feet. I get what you were trying to do but the reason it looks off balance is because the silhouette reads more like a soldier standing at attention than it does a person casually standing. The original reads more like his legs are spread apart in a more natural stance regardless of the stumpyness. Readability is infinately more important in sprites and icons than anatomical accuracy (and art in general actually - it IS all just an illusion after all). Specially on chibi/SD.
To check your readability just blacken the entire thing on a white background. The better you can immediately tell what you're trying to communicate without any details the better it reads. The chin modification I agree with and do think you improved that, it does read a tad jagged even at full scale. The crotch concerns eh... I think you may have just been wanting to make a penis joke, thats pretty obvious a bellybutton. Regardless, unless people plan to have naked characters, its a tad irrelavent and entirely based on opinion since it does read just fine.
Lighting or Avoiding Flat sprites
You linked to Niklas Jansen's tutorial but I don't think you grasped most of the concepts yourself. Most of his tutorial is on lighting and this is by far your biggest area you did incorrectly.
Lighting and shadows (Luminosity) determines the difference between flat or round not the color that it reflects back. The original template I can automatically tell where the light source is, above and a little bit in front of the character. This is a pretty ideal location for a game sprite because it describes the objects shapes adequately and it works in many different lighting conditions without looking out of place. Most tilesets indicate light from the same area just a tad to the left to give cast shadows off buildings and things, so lighting a character that way too would probably work out ok.
In your first pass you moved it to directly above his head and then told everyone to just ignore it, because you noticed something was up but didn't exactly know what it was. What you did is actually similar to pillow shading, but rather than a light being shined directly from the front, you're going directly from above. If you do photography at all, you probably know shooting under a high noon sun is discouraged since the shadows it causes will black out peoples eyes and possibly their faces depending on hair or if they're wearing a hat for example. It makes their faces not read as well, thus not as flattering a photo. The original template was much better in this aspect. You mentioned that you do not know why the body was not shaded in the same way as the head. I have no idea who made those or their art knowledge but I'd be surprised if they did that on pure accident. The reason is basically called planes. If you paint a portrait, and put a specular light on the end of a nose, any speculars on the forehead shouldn't be as apparant as the one on that nose, dull it up or (i usually don't include them myself). This help indicate it's further inside the drawing than the nose is. So in the case of the sprite the head is closer to the viewer than say the tummy is. Its part of utilizing depth. Thats what the lack of shading on the body is doing. If you look at the Jansen's pin-ups (tutorial guy) he does it very frenquently on legs that are further "in" the drawings they're usually just completely undetailed gray blobs. But it works :thumb:Â
To check your lighting you should be able to completely desaturate your entire sprite to just shades of gray and still be able to tell where the light is shining from. On your later pass you almost completely removed all indications of light right after telling people not to make their sprites flat! No no no. Light/Shadow = round, not colors! You just made the flattest sprite on the entire page! Now to be fair you DID add it back in when you detailed it with clothing and hair, but mainly just a couple cast shadows. The original with the darker spot near the eyes. I could build that shape out of clay. Just that tiny indication tells you that the eyes are abit more inset than the jaw area. With yours the face not only looks completely flat the entire head doesn't even look round. Looks like a cardboard cutout.
Here is a concept art from my game. Chosen because it is mostly in grays but you can easily see it isn't flat even with grays and the light source is in a similar spot to the original template (little more to the left though). Compare it to the the original sprites head, and your edits. Hopefully you can see that your final pass before details is by far the most flat. Even cell shading follows light rules, it's just simplified.
http://www.munk3yboy.com/fohgame/rrod.jpg[/img]
How to pick color palletes
I checked your colors, you actually do well here, better than the template. You could probably punch up your contrast in spots, but hell I should too so it'd be hypocritical for me to harp on about that. Unfortunately its the part you glossed over, and didn't really explain.
Heres a color slider, this is from Photoshop but if you're using something decent they all have something like this. Make sure you have it set to HSB mode and not RGB or it'll look a bit different. You don't have to actually pick colors this way, its just easier for me to illustrate What you should be thinking while you choose them.
http://www.munk3yboy.com/fohgame/pallete.jpg[/img]
H = Hue - controls the color
S = Saturation - this is how bright or dull a color is. Realistic is usually pretty dull (desaturated), cartoony is bright and colorful (saturated).
B = Brightness - Controls the luminosity of a color. AKA lighting.
Red Orange Yellow = Warm
Blue Purple Green = Cool
There isn't a hard edge between them. Greens can be pretty warm, Reds can be pretty cool etc. But thats Basically what you're after. Incidently gray can be either depending on what is around it. (See that Tutorial linked he has some great illustrations about that). Usually warm = closer, cool = farther away. Theres probably some psychological reason for it but I don't know. If you want a pleasing look go with that, if you want the viewer to be uncomfortable switch it up. Scary movies many times use cool colors. (Aliens did, and it kind of became a standard for futurisitic sterile looking too).
Pick your base color. That peach I screencapped will do nicely. In my sprites above I'm doing 4 colors per area. I have a base color, a warmer highlight, a cooler shadow, then a darker outline (also colored, it isn't black). Its enough for me but you can up it and go to 6's adding some inbetweens on your highlights and shadows. I wouldn't probably go much past that because it starts to get unweildy to keep colors correct while animating. You can go lower but my stuff always comes out looking like some atari crap if I do. I'd suggest ditching the highlight first over shadow in most cases if you do though. You can get rid of the outline, I know that Xenogear's sprites had no outlines but I think they look pretty bad (although they animate ungodly well).
http://www.munk3yboy.com/fohgame/elly_run.gif[/img]
Anyway choosing colors! So from our peach we slide the H bar a bit more towards a yellow perhaps (yellow usually feels warmer than a red does if you're going from an orange) Bump up the brightness bar alittle as well, probably desaturate the color a bit more (move it more to the white). This will be our highlight. To get the cooler shadows color pick our original base, then move more towards the cool colors and set the brightness lower. The H bar is set up kind of weird as far as warms and cools go but basically for the cool color I'd head left since the distance including wrap around should get you a bit closer to the really cool colors faster(blue/purple). Its all about experimentation though and you can just flat out go to an actual purple or blue if you wish. It gives a much different vibe. With a blue base I go pretty far into purple for example.
Heres an unfinished sketch to illustrate it more clearly perhaps. See the blue/grey fur? Look closely at some of my shadows they're almost completely purple. They jive well with the blue next to them so at full size your eye blends them together fairly nicely.
http://www.munk3yboy.com/fohgame/wolfen.jpg[/img]
For the outlines I usually find that taking your darkest and just going a bit darker (you can go alittle cooler too if you want) suffices. You should get something like this:
http://www.munk3yboy.com/fohgame/colors.jpg[/img]
If you desaturate that you'll see the luminosity switching so light control is good... as you go right to left the colors get cooler each step. The second color is my base so I'd mostly use this through most of it, the highlight (far left color) would be used for the head, then you use the last for an outline and the other you can use to antialias or cell shade with. If a color is too bright (I think my highlight probably is for skin) or too dark adjust as needed. If you got a blue shirt set up some colors the same way starting with blue. And so on.
EDIT : I wrote that the colors right to left get cooler, its actually the opposite, the left are warm - right are cool. I'll go get analyzed for dyslexia. =P
Small Recap:
Brightness is your shading,
Hue is your warm and colds.
Saturation I tend to experiment a lot. In the real world shadows tend to be more desaturated and blue during the day (from the sky). I find that actually bumping up the saturation alittle on my shadows gives a neat effect. Bit more punch perhaps. The key with color though is just practice and trying things. You can get wildly different feels from different things, theres no one way to do it all. If your sprite is already reading well, and your lighting is correct its a lot more difficult to ruin a sprite with the colors.
Readability = most important!!!! You can't color a sprite like a crab without it looking like a crab first!
-------------------------
Hope that helps. I didn't think your tutorial was horrible. I think if you'd had your lighting correct and explained how to choose colors and dropped the arrogant attitude and trying to put others down it'd be fairly top notch. The leg thing is sort of optional. If you want a soldier stance I'd definately use yours, but I really do think the original template reads a lot better for a more normal everyday stance. I'm guessing thats what most people need for their characters.
PS too lazy to proofread, so hopefully the grammar is manageable.
You signed up just to make that post?
Either way, thank you, you've done a much better job at explaining my points than I did. My goal was less to teach anything (I don't think I'm good enough or qualified to teach anything) but more of a "look at this and this" because there are plenty of tutorials and articles that go more in-depth about these things.
I agree with you about the colors, but you almost seem to be defending the "only 28 for a sprite this small". The reason 28 is way to many isn't because it's a high number, but because it's a ridiculously high number for that particular sprite. Zoomed out, I can only really identify four or five of them where the rest almost look like a gradient tool was applied.
My final sprite was meant to show the differences in the flatness of the color, not the form. I don't know if you're familiar with a game like Paper Mario, but whenever I work in a cartoony style, I end up with something more like that (I rarely work in cartoon styles), which is why I emphasized that my edits weren't intended to be taken as the improvement. You did a great job going into detail about how the colors were improved, which was a welcome addition to the point I was trying to show.
I'm glad you took the time to provide that for us.
Either way, thank you, you've done a much better job at explaining my points than I did. My goal was less to teach anything (I don't think I'm good enough or qualified to teach anything) but more of a "look at this and this" because there are plenty of tutorials and articles that go more in-depth about these things.
I agree with you about the colors, but you almost seem to be defending the "only 28 for a sprite this small". The reason 28 is way to many isn't because it's a high number, but because it's a ridiculously high number for that particular sprite. Zoomed out, I can only really identify four or five of them where the rest almost look like a gradient tool was applied.
My final sprite was meant to show the differences in the flatness of the color, not the form. I don't know if you're familiar with a game like Paper Mario, but whenever I work in a cartoony style, I end up with something more like that (I rarely work in cartoon styles), which is why I emphasized that my edits weren't intended to be taken as the improvement. You did a great job going into detail about how the colors were improved, which was a welcome addition to the point I was trying to show.
I'm glad you took the time to provide that for us.
munk3yboy, how have I not seen you around before? You're awesome. If you just signed up ... Welcome, man!
I especially agree with:
A lot of "pixel elitists" you'll find on the pixel-art-only sites trip balls about palettes over 16 colors for sprites and 24 for small scenes. There's no perfect number, no real sweet spot. You don't have to limit your creativity with color, that's what art is all about. Being creative. I find colorful, robust sprites 100% more attractive than their equivalents with stunted color (because it almost always either looks "washed out" or bathed in some sort of colored light).
The key is in finding a certain number of shades per color in a palette, then sticking with it, and try to make it as dynamic as possible.
--
In Des's first post, check out Wumpi's sprite. You know why it pops (well, the biggest reason)? Because she blends her colors dynamically to make interesting palettes.
Completely ignoring the extremely simplified outlines most Breezes have, if you try to blend some purple into your greens or some blues into your reds, or even just subtly working yellow into a set of blue/grey, you're going to make a FAR more attractive sprite that pops so much more than just with flat shades of the same hue.
I especially agree with:
munk3yboy":2rlnarp3 said:
A lot of "pixel elitists" you'll find on the pixel-art-only sites trip balls about palettes over 16 colors for sprites and 24 for small scenes. There's no perfect number, no real sweet spot. You don't have to limit your creativity with color, that's what art is all about. Being creative. I find colorful, robust sprites 100% more attractive than their equivalents with stunted color (because it almost always either looks "washed out" or bathed in some sort of colored light).
The key is in finding a certain number of shades per color in a palette, then sticking with it, and try to make it as dynamic as possible.
--
In Des's first post, check out Wumpi's sprite. You know why it pops (well, the biggest reason)? Because she blends her colors dynamically to make interesting palettes.
Completely ignoring the extremely simplified outlines most Breezes have, if you try to blend some purple into your greens or some blues into your reds, or even just subtly working yellow into a set of blue/grey, you're going to make a FAR more attractive sprite that pops so much more than just with flat shades of the same hue.
Despain, is there a tutorial on how to do this layered style hair with the clumps? I've only ever done solid hair or Iso work, I don't know how to do it and each time I try it looks worse and worse.
This tutorial, should be linked to on the site. It's the single most useful breeze tutorial there is. Looking at some of the sprites in this thread, I'm absolutely amazed.
This tutorial, should be linked to on the site. It's the single most useful breeze tutorial there is. Looking at some of the sprites in this thread, I'm absolutely amazed.
Despain ... There's a reason I haven't updated my Workshop in a while. Part of this whole issue is just because you really don't like the Breeze Template. Everybody has a template, and Breeze just happens to be mine. I have changed my Palettes and currently have been going over how I assemble my sprites. No template is perfect. Changing the Breeze template to your specifications only pleases you.
As I have clearly pointed out before, There are various degrees of expertise, my experience is still in the greenhorn area. There are others like Wumpi who have great talent and abilities, that also have more experience than others.
So, please, let's not drag me into this.
As I have clearly pointed out before, There are various degrees of expertise, my experience is still in the greenhorn area. There are others like Wumpi who have great talent and abilities, that also have more experience than others.
So, please, let's not drag me into this.
I have no problem with the template on its own. I'm not a fan of the way a lot of people using it promote poor sprites. I'm certainly not the best spriter out there, but I'm able to recognize when something's bad. I want this community to be able to produce better work and not settle for "good enough", which is largely what the Breeze Revolution seems to be about.
Then don't change it to my specifications. I say quite clearly that I don't want people to emulate what I did, but that they should be willing to make changes on their own. The idea behind the article was that you shouldn't limit yourself to the template and that you shouldn't be afraid to change it to suit your own needs.
Sorry if that wasn't clear.
Well I signed up quite awhile ago, I've just never posted I tend to lurk because I'm really lazy about typing, and also rarely feel the need to voice my opinion on anything. I agree'd entirely with the general idea about this topic just not in its solutions to fix it per say.
You mentioned the paper mario thing and that makes sense and does work well with the template. I'd have to re-read it cause I didn't catch that if you explained it in the article. Either way, lighting probably should have been mentioned. I know now it wasn't really a tutorial, but I think a lot of people might have trouble delegating the techniques from a painting thread over to sprites. They're not way different, but sprites are a much more mechanical process.
Incidently you do know what you're talking about and probably can teach far better than you think you can. Basically lighting and actually telling how to pick colors is all you missed that I added. =)
@Venetia
Yep, Wumpi's is really good. She pushes her colors much further than I do, and gets great results. I get envious of people who can do that. I'm not brave enough to just go nuts. =/ I gotta have some familiar ground to stand on.
I was going to mention it and reuse the examples but I already started posting and I couldn't see the first post in the Topic Summary to grab them so just used my own stuff the entire way. Haha, I'm a forum newb and didn't prepare. ^^ But yes, I think her's is probably the best one on this page (my own included).
I tend to lurk because I'm really lazy about typing, and also rarely feel the need to voice my opinion on anything. I agree'd entirely with the general idea about this topic just not in its solutions to fix it per say. You mentioned the paper mario thing and that makes sense and does work well with the template. I'd have to re-read it cause I didn't catch that if you explained it in the article. Either way, lighting probably should have been mentioned. I know now it wasn't really a tutorial, but I think a lot of people might have trouble delegating the techniques from a painting thread over to sprites. They're not way different, but sprites are a much more mechanical process.
Incidently you do know what you're talking about and probably can teach far better than you think you can. Basically lighting and actually telling how to pick colors is all you missed that I added. =)
@Venetia
Yep, Wumpi's is really good. She pushes her colors much further than I do, and gets great results. I get envious of people who can do that. I'm not brave enough to just go nuts. =/ I gotta have some familiar ground to stand on.
I was going to mention it and reuse the examples but I already started posting and I couldn't see the first post in the Topic Summary to grab them so just used my own stuff the entire way. Haha, I'm a forum newb and didn't prepare. ^^ But yes, I think her's is probably the best one on this page (my own included).
Anonymous
Guest
:x @ people liking mine. Hoot sprites are about as lazy as spriting gets.
I guess that helps underline the importance of colour choices - I didn't spend more than 10 minutes doing any one of the hoot sprites (and that's animated, all directions) because of the colour schemes. They were an experiment and I didn't see the point on spending more than a few minutes testing out colours.
I guess that's my point since I probably need one. Breeze is tiny as hell and it is easy to sprite on (I would never have used it otherwise). Because of that if you're using it you have no excuse not to arse around with colours.
So yeah. Arse around with colours. And read Munk3yboy's post it's awesome and explains this all perfectly and much more eloquently than I am capable of.
I guess that helps underline the importance of colour choices - I didn't spend more than 10 minutes doing any one of the hoot sprites (and that's animated, all directions) because of the colour schemes. They were an experiment and I didn't see the point on spending more than a few minutes testing out colours.
I guess that's my point since I probably need one. Breeze is tiny as hell and it is easy to sprite on (I would never have used it otherwise). Because of that if you're using it you have no excuse not to arse around with colours.
So yeah. Arse around with colours. And read Munk3yboy's post it's awesome and explains this all perfectly and much more eloquently than I am capable of.
On Topic: This is a nice tutorial....
Nice work!
I sorta agree...and dis agree....some part of me thinks that the old breeze one is better...oh well..
OFF Topic:
Umm munk3yboy can I get those?
Or maybe a template of those they look so good....
and it will help me decide how I want my charecters in my game to look like....
Nice work!
I sorta agree...and dis agree....some part of me thinks that the old breeze one is better...oh well..
munk3yboy":13wq6k3c said:
OFF Topic:
Umm munk3yboy can I get those?
Or maybe a template of those they look so good....
and it will help me decide how I want my charecters in my game to look like....
Well, I started with Breeze, so naturally I've developed this bad habbits, and basically need to tech myself you to pixel all over again. I keep trying to do things "the Breeze way" and they end up shitty, so your points are completely valid, at least in my book.
Please be more careful and check the date of the last post before posting.
~The Guardian
Please be more careful and check the date of the last post before posting.
~The Guardian